Gumbai!

As the person in charge of an ancient temple full of ancient relics what would you do to make it more accessable to tourists?

Fairy lights!!

This is a commen Chinese solution: both the drum tower and the city walls of X'ian along with countless other Buddest, confucian and Taoist temples, are jauntily lit up at night.

And it does not stop there; we visited a lake in a bamboo forest where they filmed some of "crouching tiger hidden dragon" and were somewhat startled when some tightrope walkers started crossing a wire above us while 2unlimiteds "no limits" blasted out of hidden speakers. All of this is rather disconcerting especialy with the legions of Chinese tourists all hearded around by microphone weilding tour guides everywhere. There dont seem to be many
Westeners outside of Beijing but boy are you aware that there are 1.3 billion Chinese out there.

We spent 5 days in Beijing, and after the scrum and the forbidden palace and the summer palace (vistitor numbers for the previous day over 20,000), we gave up on the great wall and went to try to join the party and get olympic tickets- this was easyer than we thought: as long as China aren't represented, you could by a ticket at face value from a local who did not want to go.

We saw waterpolo (slighly more homoerotic than rugby in that the players grappling with each other are half naked) and the athletics. We had one ticket for the badmington but had not checked the scheduals and were'nt able to get a second as China were playing in the match after. Luckily a guy bought our ticket for 5 times what we paid for it which was enough to kit us out in fake Deasil, Ralf Lauren, Fred Perry and Prada down the market. Armed with our new smart clothes we were ready to go for dinner with Francis the diplomat. We had met Francis and his friend " the entreprenour" in a bar where the Entreprenaur took over the canto pop band to sing opera while Francis and his mistress taught us to dance. He invited us for dinner. We ate in a vast house filled with ornate furniture, uniformed waiting staff and vast quantities of excellent food. our companions were people who were introduced variously as Mr Wu- very important boss, Mr Lu- big boss ect; all rather cool if slightly nerve wracking at time. They and everyone else in China seem to think I look like Vladimere Putin.

The best thing about China has got to be the food. we've tried everything from kebabs (sheeps oseophagus tastes like squid), firey hot noodles in street side stalls and markets, to small restaurant's where you point as someone elses food and hope (Pigs ear not so nice but generaly we've done fairly well). We went to a fancy pants reataurant in Beijing (Peking duck inPeking)and had roast duck- the chef came to the table and carved it for us giving us the meat and crackling before chopping the head in half and serving that to us as a delicacy- we couldn't. since Beijing we've grown rather fond of dumplings- it all rather put Ping Pong to shame.

Anyway as China would only give us a 30 day visa we have had to change our plans. So instead of swooping down the coast to Hong Kong we are getting the ferry to Japan on Tuesday and continuing our overland journey so that by the 25th of September we will have travelled overland from London to Tokyo. The next entry will be to say Koneechi wa or however you spell it. hopefully will be able to put some photo's up as Shanghhi is not blessed with amazing internet access.